Masculine Marvels
Men were this year’s kings in the collection of the “King of Jewellers”, Cartier.
Calibre de Cartier FlyingTourbillon Watch
Long known as a major player in women’s watches and jewellery, French luxury house Cartier impresses the world with its exquisite and luxurious design. At the same time, this image is undergoing a significant change as the brand also reveals some impressive collection of men’s watches with the 2010 collection.
Showing their ID
The Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon up close
When Cartier unveiled the plan to launch the ID One Concept Watch, it created a buzz among haute horlogerie fans. The main attraction of this watch is due to the fact that it requires no adjustment or regulation throughout the life of the watch including during production
This is a great innovation since generally gravity and the unstable nature of metal require make necessary adjustments on elements such as the hairspring, balance and pallet fork. To avoid this problem, Cartier utilized carbon crystal, a diamondlike material that reduces the need for oil. Zerodur, a patented ceramic/glass material that is extremely stable under magnetic fields and different temperatures, was used to reduce the need for regulation on the hairspring. Finally, the use of a 46 mm NiobiumTitanium case provided the watch with a hard-wearing alloy that is exceedingly shock resistant.
Reinterpreting The Classics
"Visually, the result of this unique construction makes a complete revolution around the entire surface of the dial in one minute, evident
from the off-centre balance bridge, shaped like an arrow that
indicates the seconds. Housed in Rotonde de Cartier case, this watch is available in white or pink gold case"
Pasha 42 de Cartier Skeleton Watch with Panthere Decor
Classic collections were also in vogue as seen by the release of the Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon and Tortue Perpetual Calendar. The Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon required five years of development for its 9451 MC movement, incorporating a tourbillon carriage containing the various organs of the escapement and sprungbalance with a special rotational axis at the centre of the movement that requires a different gear-train design.
To create a striking visual feat, the balance staff and escapewheel staff are separated on the carriage. Technically, in order to ensure the equilibrium of the carriage, it is necessary to incorporate a platinum counterweight on the opposite side of the carriage, hidden under the central dial. The weight of the carriage must be limited (0.39 grams for the entire carriage, excluding the counterweight) in order to control its inertia during rotation, hence the choice of titanium for its construction. Visually, the result of this unique construction makes a complete revolution around the entire surface of the dial in one minute, evident from the off-centre balance bridge shaped like an arrow that indicates the seconds. Housed in a Rotonde de Cartier case, this watch is available in white or pink gold.
The Tortue Perpetual Calendar Calibre 9422 MC has the distinction of being the first self-winding perpetual calendar movement created by Cartier. These features can be admired through an impressive open work dial; a retrograde hand indicates the days of the week, the date is shown in large figures around it and the month and year counter is located at 12 o’clock.
A Powerful Aesthetic SIgnature
Rotonde de Cartier Sketelon Flying Tourbillon Watch
"Rotonde de Cartier skeleton flying tourbillion watch with a Calibre 9455 MC movement with Geneva Seal allows the wearer to admire
the movement from all sides."
Tortue Perpetual Calendar Watch
The Santos collection comes out prominently this year with a new Calibre de Cartier. Its powerful lines, robust case and novel structure and the attraction of the 42 mm case is heightened by a bezel and extended by four curved horns set precisely into the cylindrical case middle. From the front, the dial is strikingly engaging with its large XII figure while at the back, the transparent caseback showcases the fine watchmaking movements. The rotor and upper bridges are finished with traditional Côtes de Genève and the main plate, is circular-grained. This watch features the Calibre 1904MC, the first self-winding mechanical movement developed entirely in-house. The Calibre de Cartier is available in steel, pink gold or a combination of the two, three dial variants, black, white and in chocolate brown.
Finally, the Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Flying Tourbillon watch with a Calibre 9455 MC movement with Geneva Seal allows the wearer to admire the movement from all sides. The timepiece features a skeletonised main plate and bridges that create striking Roman numerals. Its graphically stunning design features the numerals XII, III, and IX, which frame the carriage of the flying tourbillon at six o’clock. The interplay between solids and voids reveals a movement driven by a skeletonised barrel with a visible spring. It is a living artwork encased in a 45 mm white-gold case and enhanced by a range of precious hand-produced finishes: angled bridges, satin-brushed sides, and circular-grained wheels.
