VACHERON
CONSTANTIN
Patrimony & Pomp
Vacheron Constantin is a brand that more than any other is defined by tradition. For those looking for eye-popping display and space-age materials, please skip the rest of this article. But for those who appreciate the fine art of watch making, the 2009 SIHH collection of the two-and-a-half century old brand is full of Patrimony. The Patrimony was introduced in 2007 as a tribute to the watches made in the middle of the 20th century, all based on simple clear designs with a focus on technical excellence.
Vacheron Constantin is presenting a range of new pieces in the Patrimony Traditionnelle line. While all of the pieces exhibit the same characteristics, the fine bezel, the knurled case middle, trapezoid hour markers and dauphine hands and screw-down sapphire back, this year’s collection employs a number of different personalities among its many references.
Perhaps nowhere could the expertise and fine detailing of Vacheron Constantin be better displayed than in a skeleton piece, or more notably, the Skeleton Patrimony Traditionnelle. There is a choice this year between a 30 and a 38mm case and plain or diamond-set version. The 38mm piece uses the automatic 1120 SQ calibre, first created in 1967 and notable for its razor-thin 2.45 mm thickness, while the 30mm used a manual- winding 1003 SQ with an even more amazing thickness of just 1.64mm. Both movements are made using the Geneva Hallmark specifications.
For this year, the brand is introducing a new 4400 calibre, a 12.5 line movement designed in-house with a 65-hour power reserve and small seconds at 6 o’clock. The movement is housed in a new 38mm pink gold case for the Patrimony Traditionnelle. Most impressive in the collection is the perpetual calendar chronograph reference. Housed in a 43mm pink gold case and fitted with an 1141QP movement running at a speed of 18,000 vibrations per hour, the detailing on this piece really stands out. Nowhere is this more evident than in the moon-phase reading at 6 o’clock with its gold, multi-expression moon image which is hand engraved from a gold plate. When looking at the plate, the circular-graining exemplifies the fine finishing that is typical of Vacheron Constantin.
Of course, the collection wasn’t all about traditional watchmaking nor economic austerity. To laugh in the face of economic naysayers, Vacheron Constantin produced one truly audacious piece, the Kallania. Sculpted from an actual block of white gold, the Kallania comes encased with 186 set emerald-cut diamonds with Swiss Gemmological Institute certification weighing a hefty 170 carats. The piece is a take-off on the Kalla, a piece produced in 1979 that was equally gaudy for its time. All things considered, the price tag of €5 million might limit who can own this piece but it unmistakably demonstrates the brand’s complete attention to detail.
Mind you, for those who don’t own an entire country and want something a bit less overbearing, there are two new references in the Patrimony Traditionnelle line for high jewelry. The 38mm version comes equipped with 1.67 carats on the dial and 1.27 carats of purely-cut diamonds to sparkle up the 1400 Calibre in-house winding mechanical movement. There’s also three 30mm references fitted with a quartz movement and dial and case featuring anywhere from a mere 0.4 carats to 1.6 carats.
