PANERAI
On Its Own
Despite its star-studded history of celebrities who have flocked to Panerai watches, the brand has, ver the past few years, worked very hard to not be outdone in the area of machine manufacturing. Starting with the P.2002 movement launched barely a half-decade before, Panerai’s Manifattura movements have developed as the key direction of the company.
For the 2009 SIHH collection, this theme has continued with the development of several new Luminor 1950 3 Day references based on the P.9000, P.9001 and P.9002 calibres. These are all three-day power reserve and use a double-barrel system as opposed to previous eight or ten day power reserves that used three barrels. Add to this the fact that the pricing has been made very reasonable and you have a real advancement as far as the progression of the brand, offering terrific bang for the buck.
The P.9000 is the base movement with three days power reserve and has been fitted into the Luminor 1950 Marina 3 Days Automatic and the Luminor 1950 Submersible 3 Days Automatic. Both of these models use the classic Luminor case and clear look with the Submersible having the added benefit of a titanium case with 15-second indices implanted on the actual bezel.
The P.9000 is the base movement with three days power reserve
and has been fitted into the Luminor 1950 Marina 3 Days Automatic and the Luminor 1950 Submersible 3 Days Automatic.
The P.9001 is a more unique version of the 3 Day with the power reserve visible only through the back, a design trick often used by Panerai designers with other indicators in past tourbillon models. The P.9001 is being employed on the Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Power Reserve Automatic, available in steel bracelet or leather strap. And while the Glucydur oscillating balance can sometimes make the power reserve a bit of a challenge to read, there’s no questioning the fact that this is a very unique and collectible piece.
Finally, there’s a more classical front power reserve view available with the P.9002 movement, available in the Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Power Reserve Automatic case. This is a noteworthy piece in that it represents one of the first times on a Panerai movement that the power reserve is shown in a semi-circular indicator as opposed to the linear indicator that was a hallmark of past Manifattura power reserve movements.
Panerai hasn’t forgotten about tourbillons and has created an extra-large 48mm titanium piece in the PAM00315 and PAM00330 Radiomir Tourbill on GMT available in either titanium or pink gold.
Aside from the new self-manufactured movements, there is a lot of new and interesting pieces in the collection including the PAM00277 Luminor 1950 8 Days Chrono Monopulsante GMT Pink Gold. Unique in this piece is the use of a new blue colour that is a departure from the traditional black dials for which the Luminor collection is famous.
This piece is powered by a P.2004/1 movement and an attractive pink gold case. Of course, Panerai hasn’t forgotten about tourbillons and this year has created a new extralarge 48mm titanium piece in the PAM00315 and PAM00330 Radiomir Tourbillon GMT available in either titanium or pink gold. Both pieces use the P.2005 movement with six day power reserve indicated in the back of the three-barrelled movement and tourbillon indicator on the second time zone indicator.
For those looking for something a bit different, there’s also the new Luminor 1950 Ceramic 8 Days Monopulsante GMT PAM00317. The use of ceramic is something that is quite rare for a Panerai and not only is the material employed on the case and push button, but a new special hard black coating has been applied to the bridges making this an ultrasleek addition to the collection. That being said, the case is a more modest 44mm making this a piece that appeals to a wide swath of customers.
And then there’s the granddaddy of them all, the Radiomir Egiziano. Originally made in the 1950’s for the Egyptian Navy, this 60mm monster is truly for the Paneristi who wants to make a splash. Made from brushed titanium in a limited edition of 300 pieces, equal to its 300 metre water resistance, the watch is the ultimate diving-cum-fashion accessory.
